This sunny German city is the gateway to the Black Forest

 

 

 

 

 

Area near train station

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Swabian Gate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FREIBURG:
Warm Weather and Warm Hospitality

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimbuger

Question: Which is the warmest and sunniest city in Germany?

If you said it was located in the southwest portion of Germany, you'd be correct. If you said "Freiburg," you'd also be correct.

Freiburg, population 216,000, is a popular city known for its university, trade fairs and conventions, and the fact that it's a stepping off point for the Black Forest, and that it is, in fact, the warmest spot in Deutschland. Freiburg im Breisgau is situated in the federal state of Baden-Wurttemberg, straddling the Dreisam River at the foot of the Schlossberg.

The city--which still has some of its old tower gates standing--is a hub of activity in the Breisgau region. It's on the western edge of the beautiful Black Forest and is close to the Rhine River and one of Germany's most famous wine-growing regions. One of the famous old German university towns (Albert Ludwig University), and archiepiscopal seat, Freiburg was incorporated in the early 12th century and developed into a major commercial, intellectual and ecclesiastical center of the upper Rhine region. The city is also known for its high standard of living and advanced environmental practices.

FOUNDED IN 1120
Freiburg was founded in 1120, when Konrad of Zahringen appended his seal to the charter founding the market town. Construction of the Cathedral, the tallest structure in town, was begun around 1200. As early as 1246, mention is made of Freiburg and its funny little "streams" that run through the town. They are called "Bachle," which today serve to cool the city, and used to be there in early days for watering animals and fire protection. These troughs are found throughout the older part of the city.

Another unique aspect of the Old Town are the many mosaics on the walkway entrances to businesses. The flat stones, taken from the Rhine River, are cut crosswise with the cut side facing up. The mosaics contain symbols of the type of business they represent. Mosaics placed recently can be removed intact for relocation should the business move from that location.

Many Freiburg residents have homes designated on their exterior as "The House of...," such as "The House of the Black Cat." In early days this helped them to identify their homes to other people.

During World War II, the RAF sent in 300 bombers, killing as many as 3,000 people, and the Old Town and surrounding town areas were completely destroyed. Today, the market square around the Rathaus is the center of city, which is located in the Old Town area. Highlights of this city includes the former Franciscan Monastary whose church was built around 1300 and the Haus zum Walfisch or Whale House with its late gothic portal oreil.

Martinstor, or St. Martin's Gate

The Martinstor, or St. Martin's Gate, is a magnificent high tower you can't miss, and the Kornhaus, originally constructed in 1498 but has been rebuilt, is an interesting building. The Kornhaus is evidence of the importance of trade in the city, having been built in 1520-1530, with connections to the Hapsburgs represented by the coat of arms and portraits in the oreils and on the fascade. The Schwabentor (Swabian Gate), built around 1200, with a picture of a Swabian sale merchant painted on it, is an area of the city that has featured numerous taverns for decades. Since 1903, the exterior of the Swabian Gate has been adorned by a large painting of the patron saint of the city, St. George.

Another distinction of this city is the Roter Baren, which is Germany's oldest pub, serving guests continuously since 1387.

There are two palaces to see in the city: Duetschordenskommende built in 1786, and Sickingen Palace, built by Frenchman P.M. d'lxnard, which is slightly newer. In the Augustinermuseum, located in the former monastery of Augustinian Hermits, a collection of art from the upper Rhine region from the Middle Ages to the Baroque period is displayed.

ISLAND IN THE RIVER
There is also an island, "Insel," next to the old Medieval town wall which served as home to many of the town's early precious stone workshops, mills and tanneries. There are also other districts of the city that contain interesting historic buildings such as in Wiehre with its many art nouveau quarters, the neo-Romanesque St. John's Church and the Baroque Annakirche.

The Cathedral, the center point in town with its 380-foot-tall tower, has four organs, including those in the choir, the transept and tower. All of them can be played at the main keyboard in the choir. There are 418 statues at the entrance to the church, each with its own "attribute." For example, St. Catherine is shown with a wheel, because she was tortured on a wheel. The church, construction of which started as a ducal burial place, has had various additions and reconstructions over the years, but the opulent interior shows the exquisite furnishings by the citizens: beautiful stained glass windows with the coat of arms of the patrician families and guilds, the high altar and the furnishings of the choirs with 16th century windows, altars from the late Middle Ages to the neo-Gothic period, and gravestones in the gallery and the chapels. In the bellfry, you'll see one of the oldest bells in Germany, cast in 1258.

In its west tower, the octagon of the superstructure comes out of the massive base, and a system of concealed iron anchors enabled the filigree construction of the pointed polygonal spire. All of the architecture of the church features sculptures such as prophets, saints, demons and imps.

The area of the city around Oberlinden is said to be one of the earliest settled areas, with deep basements of the homes that date to the beginning of the settlement. The forked street at the Baroque Marienbrunnen under the "obere Linde" is even older. It's here that the old main road to Herdern branched off from a trade route, still named after the product that was carried over the route: salt from the Swabian salt towns.

'CITY OF WINE'
Dubbed the "City of Wine," Freiburg has been surrounded by vineyards since the 13th century. Three of the eight wine growing areas in Baden are within the boundaries of Freiburg. In August the annual Freiburger Wine Tasting Festival gets under way, and a permanent wine tasting tavern, sponsored by the local growers, has been established near the Alte Wache (old police station). Freiburg wine is known for the many varieties of grapes from which it is made.

The local university just celebrated its 550th year; founded in 1457, its 22,000 students today can chose from 100 subjects in 11 different areas of study. Freiburg bills itself as a Green City, with it being one of the birthplaces of the environmental protection movement. As well, the city has won a number of environmental awards.

SIGNS OF IDENTIFICATION
An interesting story that local Freiburg tour guide Iris Burklin relates is that in the early days, to prove that someone had actually visited Freiburg, since you couldn't take a photo of where you'd been, they offered "signs of indentification" which they'd explain to those who asked. One was a praying devil rubbing his hands together and a nose trumpeter, both on the church. A third, found on the Swabian Gate, is a figure of a person taking a thorn from his foot, a sign for "staying on the right path."

Freiburg has come a long way since its founding about 900 years ago. Today, it attracts visitors as a gateway to the Black Forest, where tradition reigns, yet the city itself is at the forefront of technology, solar power and the environment.

It's a city of many interests and interesting people. As Mayor Dieter Salomon says, "There's always something happening in Freiburg. Boredom simply does not exist here."

For more information on Freiburg and the region, check out www.freiburg-home.com.