Don't bypass this important and charming provincial Spanish city
My heart is warm with the friends I make,
And better friends I'll not be knowing;
Yet there isn't a train I wouldn't take,
No matter where it's going. — Edna St. Vincent Millay, "Travel"
Zaragoza:
Spain's hidden wonder
By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author
Surrounded by the Bay of Biscay, the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean, you can see why food from the sea plays such a big role in Spain's economy. In fact, 88% of Spain is bordered by water.
The city of Zaragoza, which lies in the ancient Kingdom of Aragon in northeastern Spain, and is the fifth largest Spanish city, lies only 160 miles from the Mediterranean, and this important provincial capital shares in the rich seafood bounty.
Don't make the mistake of just passing through Zaragoza on the way from Madrid and Barcelona. With an array of museums, art galleries, theaters, upscale shops and top restaurants, Zaragoza is an important university city, with approximately 50,000 students and a number of attractions of note.
CENTRAL MARKET IS LIVELY
Now back to the fish. Go any morning to Zaragoza's colorful and lively Central Market, housed in a 1903 brick and stone, iron and glass building, and you will see the variety of prawns, salmon, clams, octopus, squid and other sea creatures trucked in fresh that morning. The Central Market has been in the same location in this city of nearly 700,000 since the 13th century, offering everything from freshly-picked mushrooms to corn, limes, melons, sausages, cheeses, olives, asparagus, figs, tomatoes, peaches, cherries, strawberries, beans, nectarines and vegetables.
The exterior of the Central Market--which looks like a train station in many respects--features motifs in relief pertaining to the fish or agriculture trades.On the interior, it's a walk through very busy--and often crowded--aisles, crammed with stalls offering fresh produce and meats of every kind including specialties such as goat parts, intestines and pig's heads. The market building, designed by the municipal architect Ricardo Magdalena, is a microcosm of life in Spain and this city that sits on the scenic Ebro River, the longest in Spain. If you visit the market, be sure to notice the plaque on the wall that reminds visitors that the last mayor-judge of Aragon, Juan de Lanuza, was beheaded in the square in 1591 on Phillip II's orders.
WEALTHY AND PROSPEROUS CITY
Zaragoza's wealth and prosperity is reflected in the city's spacious boulevards, extensive shopping districts, lively bars and fine dining. The Ebro, which runs through nearly three dozen towns in Aragon, has become a symbol of identity for the province and Zaragoza itself (sometimes called "la harta" because it had and has everything). The city has become a crossroads, a meeting place between people and cultures: the province and city sit in the center of the Ebro River Valley. To the east is Catalonia, to the north and south the provinces of Huesca and Teruel.
To the north, the mighty Pyrenees, with 26 peaks higher than 9,800 feet, set a backdrop, while to the south and west lie the Iberian mountains. A warm, semi-arid climate pervades the area, with little rainfall and occasional strong winds that sweep over the river basin. Nestled like a triangle here is the province of Zaragoza and the city, founded by the Romans in 24 B.C.
The same distance from Barcelona, Madrid, Bilbao and Valencia, Zaragoza enjoys a rich tradition of Muslim, Jewish and Christian influences. Zaragoza was a Roman colony, but by the 8th century there was Arab influence as well. Today the city welcomes tourists to view its many historical delights that extend to the Romanesque period, the masterpieces of Gothic art in the recently restored La Seo Cathedral which "reflects the faith, the history and the art of Aragon," according to the cathedral's literature, and a popular architecture called Mudejar developed by the Moors of the 12-14th centuries.
Renaissance art can be seen at the Lonja--the Commodities Exchange--in Zaragoza, as well as many palaces of noblemen, now used as museums. Then there are the Baroque and Neoclassical styles such as the temple of El Pilar, as well as other styles to be seen.
THE OLD CITY
As with most European cities, the Old Quarter (known locally as the Casco Viejo) is where you should begin your adventure.
La Seo Cathedral, located at one end of the main square, is noted for its tower (built between 1686-1704), its main facade built in Italian Baroque style and its Gothic Mudejar Wall dating from the 14th century. Inside, the cathedral is striking, forming an impressive hall with large, stately columns. Sixteen smaller chapels lead off from the hall, many built between the 16th and 18th centuries. The High Altarpiece was built in 1434 and is made from alabaster. There is even a tapestry museum inside the cathedral, displaying a collection of Flemish tapestries.
The city's largest crown jewel is the imposing Basilicia del Pilar (Our Lady of the Pillar) of Aragonese Baroque art. Built after 1681, the temple is huge, displays Mudejar-style brick on the exterior, multi-colored tiles on its many domes, and features a unique Byzantine roof. The church's roof is best viewed from the tower which is accessible by elevator and a small fee. There from the top of the tower, visitors can look over the entire city and the Ebro River.
The design of the church is based on the idea of not moving the holy column of the Virgin Mary from whence the church is founded. According to the story, the Virgin Mary came to console James the Apostle in Zaragoza, who was discouraged teaching the Gospel. The Virgin Mary brought with her a column to build the first chapel, and thus through the years the church was built around the column. Today, people come from all over Spain and the world to see the church and to kiss the column, which is said to bring God's blessings. Our Lady of the Pillar is not only the patron saint of Aragon but also of Spain and Spanish-America.
CAESAR AUGUSTUS MUSEUM
A short walk away is the Caesar Augustus Theatre Museum, representing one of the largest theaters of the Hispanic-Roman period, with seating for 6,000. Archaeological remains of a market from the time of Emperior Augustus are on display here. At Sagrado Corazon Church, at San Pedro Nolasco Square, visit the exhibition of Rosario de Cristal, an annual procession since 1889 through the city's streets that depicts what is called the Luminous, Joyous, Painful and Glorious mysteries; the exhibit also features a display of valuable lanterns.
You don't want to miss the Aljaferia Palace, now used by the Parliament of Aragon (since 1987). A World Heritage Site and surrounded by a moat sans water, it's an important and unique structure from the 11th century of Hispanic-Muslim architecture. You can pretend you're royalty as you walk through the garden portico of the Santa Isabel Courtyard and visit the Golden Room and the Oratory. The Mudejar Palace of Peter IV and the Chapel of San Martin are of particular interest.To see everything here, you'll need a couple of hours at the minimum.
As you wander the city, be sure to spot the Puerta del Carmen, designed by architect Agustin Sanz in 1795, a gateway into the city in the 18th century. Formed as a triumphal Roman arch, it has suffered from the effects of time and wars.
THE STONE BRIDGE
Good views of the city can be found at the gothic-style Stone Bridge over the Ebro, the oldest bridge in Zaragoza. There are four new bronze lions, the work of Francisco Rallo, as part of the bridge's artwork. Another sight worth seeing is the Sastago Palace, a Renaissance building dating from the 16th century and built by Artal de Alagon, the Viceroy of Aragon. Another city highlight is the Patio de la Infanta, a courtyard once part of a palace owned by a local banker. Today it's owned by a bank and displays beautiful ornamentation, especially the spandrels/columns on the main floor, each with a different meaning.
The Zaragosa Museum, housed in the 1908 Arts Pavilion, features an archaeology section covering Prehistory to the Muslim era, a fine arts section, paintings, sculptures, pottery and numismatic exhibits from the 12th century and beyond. A room is also dedicated to Goya's oil paintings, chalcographic prints and ink drawings. A series of 82 etchings of Goya were completed following the Peninsular War, which affected Goya greatly after he visited Zaragoza in 1808. These are on display.
To take in a bullfight, you can see the first building in Zaragoza built for this purpose, the Coso de la Misericoria; it was constructed in the 18th century. An initial bullring was made of wood and later replaced by brick and stone. It resembles Muslim architecture. But a caution: bullfights can be graphic, so you might want to consider the age of your children before bringing them along.
Another interesting-looking church is La Magdalena, dating from as early as 1126. Of the Mudejar style, it also features Baroque alterations. The Mudejar square tower on the church is composed of brick, imbedded with tiles and displays a fortress-like crown at the top, dating to the 14th century.
MORE MUSEUMS
Two more Zaragoza museums of note are the Pablo Gargallo Museum and the Ibercaja Camon Aznar Museum.
With a sculpture of Gargallo in the Museum's courtyard, this museum displays contemporary art. Located in a 16th century building, the items on display include drawings, engravings, cartoons and biographical documentation about the author, in addition to sculptures in different materials. Also worthy of note are works such as The Great Prophet, the portrait of Kiki de Montparnasse, and the equestrian figures known as Olympic Salute.
In the Camón Aznar Museum, paintings are exhibited with canvases from the 15th century to the 20th centuries. Of note is the Gran Sala with a series of etchings by the painter Francisco de Goya.
HOLY WEEK AND EXPOSITIONS
With a history of more than 700 years, Holy Week in Zaragoza draws visitors from far and wide. The nine-day event, in which the city "trembles with emotion and devotion," includes a procession of the Holy Burial on Good Friday featuring more than 3,500 drums. The procession, one of 53 during the week, proceeds through the Old Town and can last up to six hours. With one of the wealthiest legacies of Christian tradition, Zaragoza continues to be a stop on the Saint James Way from the Ebro, an historic pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.
In 2008, the city hosted the International Expo Zaragoza, drawing 5.6 million people from all over the world. With water a theme of the Expo, a large part of Zaragoza was transformed into a gigantic water park that included a congress-palace, elaborate aquarium, white water rafting course, two 18-hole and two 9-hole golf courses and kayaking. In addition, there's a cable car ride over the area, a 176,000-square-foot silica sand beach with 200 palm trees with an aquatic play area, and a bar and food service, aquatic gardens, lawns and a waterwheel. The aquarium is the largest fresh water aquarium in Europe and the third largest in the world, with 5,000 specimens. The Expo area is situated across the Ebro and is reachable by foot, car, bus, cable car or bike. A brand new, expansive train station sits close to the river for easy access to the park. Most hotels remain in the downtown area, except the 176-room Hotel Hiberus, part of the Palafox Hotel chain. The company also owns the five-star, 179-room Hotel Palafox in the city center, located on a semi-private street.
Fantoba, a high-end speciality candy maker at Don Jaime I, 21 has been creating delicious candies, especially fruit-covered candies, since 1856, and their family-run store is filled with delights to please the eye and the palate. A total of 20 employees make the pastry and candy offerings, run a tea room, a winery and catering business. Ivana Molina and her father Alejandro operate the shop and have continued making the highest quality candies and cakes for customers. The exterior of the shop was designed by Ricardo Magdalena, and is a work of art in itself.
Zaragoza is blessed with a number of four- and five-star hotels, as well as three- and two-star hotels. Pensions are also available and at least two youth hostels are located in town. For more information, go to www.zaragozaturismo.es or e-mail turismo@zaragoza.es.
TAPAS AND MORE
Eating in this city can be lots of fun, as it offers a diverse menu with the blending of four cultures, and recipes that have been preserved from generation to generation. Foods range from fried dishes to tomato and pepper sauces, to traditional borage and fresh vegetables grown next to the Ebro River. Pork, lamb and game are often used in the local casseroles and stews, while ham is the most favored dish in town. Olive oil is a standard at any table where bread is served, and the oil is used in many local dishes as well.
Félix Martínez
Tapas, served everywhere in town and across Spain, are available in most restaurants and many bars/stands. Recommended restaurants include the Aragonia in the Hotel Palafox; Félix Martínez's La Jamoneria for outstanding ham; David Baldova´s Restaurant Novodabo for innovative twists on traditional cuisine, upscale meals dinners at the Hotel Hiberus, and all around delicious, tasty Aragonese regional specialties at La Bastilla (address: Coso 177).
For an evening of fun, go to the middle of town and grab a table at Taberna Doña Casta (Estébanes 6), a small-capacity (seats 34 people) tapas restaurant, known for its selection of fine wines. A wide range of tapas are available, the atmosphere is friendly, and the place is rustic and cozy. The specialties of the restaurant are fungi with honey and cheese, blackpudding, ratatouille, vegetables and piquillo peppers.
The whole area, consisting of numerous bars and cafes along very narrow streets, is situated between Alfonso I, Plaza España, Don Jaime I and Mendez Nunez streets. Take your camera with you, as the colorful lights, signs and food will have you wanting to take memories home with you.
Zaragoza is a delightful city with friendly people, a good transportation system--including city bike rentals and cable cars which transport visitors from the Expo grounds to the historic city center--great food and numerous historical attractions. Yes, see Spain's other cities, but definitely add Zaragoza to your list.
If you go....
The high speed Madrid-to-Barcelona train line called AVE, in operation since February of 2008, will whisk you to the brand new Zaragoza train station in an hour and 18 minutes, a trip that used to take as much as 6 1/2 hours. The AVE actually competes favorably with Iberia's air schedules, traveling at speeds up to 185 miles an hour.
Comfortable coaches with adjustable seats, large windows and overhead luggage racks make the trip pleasant; since your ticket is checked prior to departure, you won't even be asked for it once you've boarded. A restaurant car serves full meals for passengers. Cost of a one-way ticket between Madrid and Zaragoza is about 30€. www.renfe.es.
Take advantage of the Zaragoza Card, the tourist card that includes many advantages including free entrance in all museums, monuments and places of interest, tourist services like hop-on, hop-off bus and guided tours. The card even offers you tapas and a drink in one of the specified bars, up to 50% off at some hotels and up to 40% off a car rental. More information is at www.zaragozacard.com.
For complete information about Zaragoza, go to www.zaragoza.es or wwww.spain.info.
